Overview

• Located in the state of Himachal Pradesh, Papsura is one of the most challenging peaks to climb
• Standing at an elevation of 6,451 meters (21164.7 feet)
• Climb the Peak of Evil Mount Papsura
• Visit of Kasol village one of the most famous villages in Himachal.
• The challenge and adrenaline rush of climbing Papsura attracts adventurers and mountaineers from around the world, seeking a memorable and challenging expedition
• Climbing Mont Papsura is a test of endurance, technical skills, and mental strength, making it an attractive challenge for experienced climbers.
• Trek in the Parvati Valley of Kullu
• The peak provides a unique opportunity to explore the beautiful

Papsura (6,451 m / 21,164.7 ft), often called the "Peak of Evil," is a striking, glaciated peak in the Parvati Valley region of Himachal Pradesh, India, near the Spiti–Parvati divide. It's a remote and challenging peak requiring advanced mountaineering skills.

Below is a suggested itinerary to climb Papsura, starting from Manali. This is a technical expedition, so climbers need to be well-acclimatized, experienced in glacier travel, and ideally accompanied by local guides or mountaineering professionals.

PAPSURA ITINERARY FROM MANALI (Approx. 20–25 days)

Day 1: Arrive in Manali (2,050 m)

• Rest, last-minute shopping

• Gear check and acclimatization

Day 2: Manali – Tosh (2,400 m) via Kasol

• 5–6 hours by road

• Night stay in Tosh village

Day 3: Tosh – Kuta Thatch

• Begin trek through lush meadows and forests

• 5–6 hour moderate trek

Day 4: Kuta Thatch – Mantalai Lake (4,100 m)

• Enter alpine zone, follow Parvati River

• Tough terrain, 7–8 hours

Day 5: Rest and acclimatization at Mantalai

• Practice basic ropework and glacier movement if needed

Day 6–8: Mantalai – Pin Parvati Pass (5,319 m)

• Steep ascent, glacier travel begins

• Setup high camp near the pass

Day 9–10: Descend into Pin Valley side / setup base camp for Papsura

• Trek across remote terrain to base of Papsura

• Establish Base Camp (~4,800–5,000 m)

CLIMBING PHASE (10–12 Days)

Day 11–22: Papsura Summit Push

• Establish:

  • Camp 1 (~5,400 m)

  • Camp 2 (~6,000 m) on the glacier

• Use alpine techniques: fixed rope, ice climbing

• Summit Day: Long and strenuous climb over steep snow/ice sections

• Descend to Base Camp after summit

PAPSURA EXPEDITION – COMPLETE PACKING LIST

PERSONAL GEAR

• Backpack (60–70L)

• Daypack (20–30L)

• Duffel bag (for porters/mules)

CLOTHING

Base Layers:

• 2–3 synthetic or merino wool thermal tops

• 2 thermal bottoms

Insulation Layers:

• 1 fleece jacket

• 1 heavy down jacket (rated for -10°C to -20°C)

Outer Layers:

• Waterproof, windproof shell jacket (Gore-Tex or similar)

• Waterproof pants (preferably with side zips)

Lower Body:

• 2 trekking pants (quick-dry)

• 1 pair of insulated pants (for high camp and summit)

• 3–4 quick-dry underwear

• Fleece leggings or inner thermal pants

Headwear:

• Warm woolen or fleece beanie

• Balaclava or neck gaiter (2)

• Wide-brim sun hat or cap

• Glacier sunglasses (Category 4, high UV protection)

Handwear:

• 1 pair of inner liner gloves (fleece/synthetic)

• 1 pair of waterproof outer gloves (insulated)

• 1 pair of expedition mittens (for summit day)

Footwear:

• Waterproof trekking boots (broken-in)

• Double-layered mountaineering boots (for 6,000+ m climbs)

• Camp shoes or sandals

• 4–5 pairs of woolen trekking socks

• 2–3 pairs of liner socks

• Gaiters (for snow travel)

CLIMBING EQUIPMENT

(Confirm with your guide/agency what is provided and what you must bring yourself)

• Climbing harness

• Helmet

• Ice axe (technical or basic, depending on route)

• Crampons (compatible with your mountaineering boots)

• Ascender (jumar)

• Belay/rappel device (figure 8 or ATC)

• 2–3 carabiners (locking and non-locking)

• Prusik loops / accessory cords

• Mountaineering rope (shared by the team)

• Ice screws / snow stakes (group gear)

• Personal anchor system or daisy chain

CAMPING AND SLEEPING GEAR

• Sleeping bag (rated to -20°C to -30°C)

• Insulated sleeping mat (foam or inflatable)

• Trekking poles (collapsible, with snow baskets)

• Water bottles (2 liters total) and thermos flask

• Mug, bowl, spoon (lightweight and durable)

• Dry bags or stuff sacks (for organization)

• Repair tape or kit (duct tape, etc.)

• Headlamp with extra batteries

HYGIENE AND FIRST AID

• Sunscreen (SPF 50+)

• Lip balm with SPF

• Toothbrush, toothpaste, biodegradable soap

• Toilet paper or tissue packs

• Hand sanitizer

• Quick-dry towel

• Nail clipper, tweezers

Personal First Aid Kit:

• Diamox (acetazolamide) – for altitude sickness

• Ibuprofen or paracetamol – for pain relief

• Antiseptic ointment

• Anti-diarrheal medicine (e.g. loperamide)

• Anti-nausea pills (e.g. domperidone)

• Blister kit – moleskin, Compeed, etc.

• Electrolyte sachets

• Personal prescription medicines

• Crepe bandage or compression wrap

MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS

• Power bank or solar charger

• Camera or action cam with spare batteries

• Notebook and pen

• Lighter or waterproof matches

• Trash bags (pack out all waste)

• ID, passport, expedition permits (originals and photocopies)

• Small lock (for duffel bags)

OPTIONAL BUT RECOMMENDED

• GPS watch / altimeter

• Multi-tool or Swiss Army knife

• Reading material, playing cards (for rest days)

• Extra batteries (cold reduces battery life quickly)

• Ice screw holster (for technical sections)

ITEMS TO AVOID

• Cotton clothes (they absorb moisture and don't dry quickly)

• Jeans or fashion items

• Casual sunglasses (not UV rated for glaciers)

• Overpacking – prioritize essentials and lightweight gear